Jean Anderson is a venerated food writer in America, whose recipes are always reliable and whose judgment is excellent. Her New cookbook, Falling off the Bone, Wiley, $29.95 (less at Amazon) is a wonderful addition to any cook’s library and particularly valuable to low carb dieters. Ms. Anderson is on the same page with us Silver Cloud Dieters and shows a broad range of recipes that use the cheapest cuts of meat — which always have the best flavors — in old-fashioned and innovative recipes sure to please. About the only changes dieters will need to make is ixnay on the noodles, rice and potatoes, but otherwise, this cookbook offers a wealth of great, economical recipes that not only make great dinners, but great leftovers too. Now that’s a huge plus.
This recipe, inspired by a Tuscan original, see the photo of Lucca on market day, and you can almost believe you’re in Tuscany yourself. Ahhh.
Here, in Jean’s own words:
Tuscan Veal Pot Roast in Lemon Sauce
This recipe was inspired by one that caught my fancy in Flavors of Tuscany, a favorite cookbook written by my friend Nancy Harmon Jenkins, who divides her time between a house in Maine and another in that storied Italian province. I’ve substituted veal rump for beef round and adapted the seasonings accordingly. I also oven-braise the pot roast to reduce the risk of sticking and scorching. This is an unusually accommodating recipe—no tending needed once the roast’s in the pot and the pot’s in the oven. Tip: Using a fine-toothed Microplane, grate the lemon zest before you juice the lemon—it’s easier this way. Scoop the zest into a small ramekin, cover with plastic wrap, and set aside until needed.
MAKES 6 SERVINGS
3 pounds boned and rolled veal rump
¾ teaspoon salt, or to taste
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, or to taste
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
Juice of 1 large lemon
1 small sprig fresh rosemary or ½ teaspoon crumbled dried leaf rosemary
1 large whole bay leaf (preferably fresh)
1 ½ cups chicken broth
2 teaspoons finely grated lemon zest (see Tip above)
¼ cup cold water blended with 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour (thickener)
1. Preheat oven to 300°F. Rub veal all over with salt and pepper and set aside.
2. Heat oil over high heat in a nonreactive Dutch oven just large enough to hold veal until ripples appear on pan bottom—about 1½ minutes. Add veal and brown richly on all sides—about 15 minutes.
3. Add lemon juice, rosemary, bay leaf, and broth, and bring to a boil. Slide onto middle oven shelf, cover, and braise slowly until veal is tender— 2½ to 3 hours.
4. Lift roast to a cutting board, cover loosely with foil, and let rest 20 minutes.
5. Remove bay leaf and rosemary sprig from pot and discard. Stir lemon zest into pan juices, then add thickener slowly, whisking all the while. Cook over moderate heat, whisking constantly, until thickened, smooth, and no raw floury taste lingers—about 5 minutes. Taste for salt and pepper and adjust as needed.
6. To serve, overlap thin slices of veal on a heated large platter and ladle lemon sauce evenly over all.